The last full-dress parade of the Macoutes, then the family flies out

Diederich was allowed back in 1980 and given a three hour interview by Jean-Claude Duvalier, who had just married Michele Bennett, and he returned regularly after that. In early December 1985 he predicted the end was near. He and his photographer son attended the Independence Day service at the cathedral in Port-au-Prince that January and were both arrested there, but the events proved him right. The service was the last public ceremony for the young couple and the last full dress parade of the Tontons Macoutes. The popular revolt succeeded and on 7 February 1986 Duvalier fled the country. Diederich records what followed without triumph, including the massacre of thirty four voters on election day in November 1987 while Duvalierist gunmen and the army under General Namphy roamed the streets, and the election of Jean-Bertrand Aristide by an overwhelming margin.

Haiti's 1987 constitution recognises freedom of religion, and Fleurant reads it as recognising Vodou as the national religion of the Haitian people. The status remains ambivalent all the same, because many attempts have been made to uproot the practice, and although the purges have generally failed they leave doubt hanging over its worth. The school system, which favours a cosmopolitan approach, has still not put the mythology on any syllabus. For the last thirty years, he writes, people have practised openly. The expatriate community, called the Tenth Department because the national territory is divided into nine, numbers over a million Haitians and includes many advocates of the religion, among them the writer Franketienne and the musicians of Boukman Eksperyans, Boukan Ginen, RAM and the Fugees. A religion with no centre, no dogma and no head office turns out to travel well.

The economies handed over at independence were organised around a handful of export crops. Colonial administration had never tried to feed the territories or to link them internally. The aim was a possession that paid for itself out of export duties and tax, so roads and railways ran from the growing districts to the nearest harbour and stopped there. By the 1950s the acreage under cash crops was rising while the capacity to grow food for local eating was falling, which put rural households in a position where growing more left them poorer. Marketing boards bought at fixed low prices and sold abroad at much higher ones, and independence did not close them. The pattern was old. In the nineteenth century the continent exported captives, ivory and palm oil. In the twentieth it exported cotton, cocoa and gold. Around 1950 there was reason for optimism, with high postwar prices, expanding mines, and a West African merchant class better off than its South Asian equivalent.

The popular overthrow of Jean-Claude Duvalier in February 1986 caught a region that had ignored the preceding decade. Smith lists what the region failed to notice: grassroots movements spreading through the provinces after 1980, the political weight of the diaspora and its part in eroding macoutisme, and a refugee crisis that kept growing. When the crisis broke it was again the Jamaican government, under Edward Seaga, that acted first, sending the education minister Neville Gallimore to negotiate with Duvalier. Smith notes drily that Gallimore was reportedly chosen because he spoke Spanish, a skill of little use in Haiti, and that many Jamaicans remained unconvinced his efforts contributed to the capitulation. CARICOM itself was slow, sending a group of Caribbean leaders to see president Henri Namphy only in December 1987 and returning again in 1989 under Prosper Avril.